Why wood
Wood fences are popular for their natural look, privacy and flexibility. They can be built as tall privacy fences, short picket fences, horizontal slat designs or mixed with lattice. Wood is also easy to repair: a damaged board or rail can be replaced without rebuilding the whole fence.
Choosing lumber
- Pressure-treated pine or fir is common for posts and rails because it's treated to resist rot and insects. Posts set in the ground should be rated for ground contact.
- Cedar naturally resists decay and insects, weathers to a silver gray if left unfinished, and is lighter than many woods. It's often used for pickets and boards.
- Redwood is also naturally durable and attractive, at a higher cost in many areas.
Many fences use treated posts with cedar or redwood boards. Ask the contractor which species and grades they plan to use for each part.
Posts are the foundation
Most wood fences fail at the posts. Posts that rot at ground level or heave out of the ground take the fence with them. A durable post installation includes:
- Posts rated for ground contact, or steel posts with wood facing.
- Holes deep enough for the fence height, the soil and, in cold climates, the local frost depth.
- Gravel at the bottom of the hole for drainage.
- Concrete or tamped gravel around the post, depending on the soil and the contractor's method, with the top sloped to shed water away from the post.
- Post spacing appropriate to the fence design, often around eight feet.
Gates that don't sag
Gates sag when their own weight pulls the frame out of square. A well-built gate has a diagonal brace running from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, or a steel frame or anti-sag kit, heavy-duty hinges, and a stout post on the hinge side. Wide openings, such as for vehicles, often use double gates.
Styles
- Privacy fences with boards butted together or slightly overlapping.
- Shadowbox or board-on-board, with boards alternating on each side of the rails, which looks good from both sides and lets some air through.
- Picket fences for front yards.
- Horizontal slat fences for modern designs; they need closer post spacing or stiffer rails to avoid sagging.
Finishing and maintenance
Wood left unfinished weathers and grays. A penetrating stain or sealer slows weathering and moisture absorption. Reapply periodically, especially on the sunny side. Keep soil, mulch and sprinklers away from the bottom of boards, and trim vegetation that holds moisture against the fence.
Property lines and permits
Before building, confirm where your property line is; a survey may be needed if markers are unclear. Many cities limit fence height, especially in front yards and near corners where visibility matters, and some require permits for taller fences. Homeowners associations often have their own rules. Talk to neighbors about shared fences before work starts.
Questions to ask
- What lumber species and grades will you use for posts, rails and boards?
- How deep will the posts go, and how will they be set?
- How will you build the gates to prevent sagging?
- Will you call in a utility locate before digging?
- Is a permit required, and who obtains it?
- What warranty covers materials and labor?
Fasteners
Use corrosion-resistant screws or ring-shank nails rated for treated lumber. Ordinary steel fasteners can rust and stain cedar and redwood boards.